Just in case you want to know just what is it like to change a transfer case out, I can tell you.  I have always been worried about the transfer case breaking on me since I can not see inside to see just how well it is doing.  I hate things I can not see like this.  Well, a friend of mine broke his while driving in a drainage ditch in his Hummer that had only 40,000 miles on it.  While trying to get up and out, the front wheels gave up on him, leaving him stuck in a ditch.  After taking more then an hour to get him out and on solid road once again, the Hummer was gong no where fast or slow.  It was parked at a friends front driveway when he called for help.

    After looking at the underside of the Hummer, it only took seconds to tell him, he needed a new transfer case. He had blown a hole on the bottom side of the case and it was clear that the chain broke and got wedged between the gears and the case.

    He had ordered a new transfer case for his 97 Hummer, and in a little over a week it was here in Houston.  To bad the shipping company could not get a hold of him and tell him that his package was here.  More then a week later he found out where is was.  It was about 100 lb. and in a cardboard box on a small little pallet.

    REMOVING THE TRANSFER CASE: Well, reading the service manual made it sound real easy, but shortly after I started into it, I was beginning to wonder about it.   But once I had the 6 nuts of the transfer case, I was seeing the end coming.

This was about the order that took place while doing the job:

1. Remove the transfer case protection panel.
2. Remove the "U" bolts from the front propeller shaft. If the truck is on the ground, you may want to jack up one wheel so that you can turn the propeller shaft in order to gain access to the bolts on the yoke.
3. Remove the rear clamp for the rear propeller shaft.
4. Remove the bolts from heat shield, 2 near the rear, 2 on the "U" clamp near the front, and one up on top of the muffler.
5. Remove rear propeller shaft.
6. Disconnect all electrical connects, all three.
7. Remove bolt from wiring harness on top of the transfer case
8. Disconnect vent line.
9. Disconnect both ATF lines for the cooler.
10. Disconnect the shifting lever.
11. Remove the Fuel tank clamps and lower the front of the tank about 10 inches while holding the rear end up.  Be careful and watch out for the fuel lines to the top of the tank.
12. Remove the bolts and brackets connected to the stabilizer cable.  ( I will get the right name for this later)
13. Remove the six (6) bolts the connect to the adapter plate and transmission.
14. Slide the transfer case back about 2 inches until free from the transmission.
15. Add sealant to the end of the transfer case that connected to the adapter plate.
16. Get the new transfer case up in to place and slide on to shaft of transmission.
17. Bolt the six bolts down into place.
18. Put fuel tank back in to place and clamp back in to place.
19. Connect shift lever.
20. Connect ATF line.
21. Connect Air vent.
22. Connect the 3 electrical connections
23. Reconnect the front propeller shaft and bolt down using the "U" bolts.
24. Reconnect the rear propeller shaft
25. Remount the bracket for the cable that helps stabilize the transfer case.
26. Check the fluid level of the transfer case (this one was full when shipped)
27. Mount protection panel.
28. Start the engine.
29. Check fluid level of transfer case and transmission.
30. test drive it.

But I did take lot of photos when I took the transfer case apart.  Click on the photo to check the inside of the transfer case and what I found.

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