From what I have seen, I will be replacing some of the HID lights with some of the new styles from McCulloch that I think will really do wonders for my front & backup lights instead of what I have right now. I will have some new photos to show you, in the mean time, I have borrowed some of the photos from their site to show how nice they are.
Click on the photos above to get more info from the McCulloch site
Check this out, the 914 light cover. McCulloch manufactures the lights for Eagle Eye Lights and I hear that they are also making some for Bosch too. The Eagle Eye brand are the HID that I already have, and as you can see from the photos below, they are well built.
Old News:
Here are some Eagle Eyes 900 HID lights that came out some time back in 2000, I took them a part and made my own HID headlights using the Zelmot headlight lens that worked out great with little glare. Never did add a high beam to them, and later replaced them with some new head lights from TruckLite that where great for normal head lights. Plus my HID head lights where not DOT approved and it was time for my state inspection. In the mean time, I am waiting on some new DOT approved 6024 HID Head lights (soon to be on the Hummer)
I also re-assembled the Eagle Eye 900 back to how I first got them and used them as my backup lights, They are some killer lights when it come to lighting up the area whether using them for backing up, or flooding the camp grounds with some nice bright white light. During the flood in 91, they where great flood lights while working with the fire department and sheriff department.
They also come with a
wireless remote switch and all the wiring for most vehicles. Schematic Diagram & Installation Manual
that I also used for remotely turning on and off the lights while at the camp
site.
 Here
is the Driving light with the rear cover plate & bulb removed. The
power / controller is in the silver looking box on the left side. On of
the bad things I find with this unit was the fact that you can not remove
the lamp socket. But if could be removed, chances are that it would not
be connected correctly to with stand the high voltage or the water. As
it is right now, the unit is very well sealed from the water. The wire
between he socket and the controller is only 11 inches, but I think
for most application, 11 inches about the best size you could as for. |
 Here
is the socket as it sits in the base of the driving lamp. With the
cover removed, this socket and lamp will just come out. |
 Close
up view of the Philips D2R-35W HID lamp. This lamp here has some added
shielding to prevent some of the light from shinning too high in to the
on coming traffic's eyes |
Another view of the D2R Philips HID bulb. |
 The
power pack or lamp controller is what powers the HID lamp. About 28,000
volts at startup, then it drop to about 90 volts, once it has fires
up. Current draw is only 3.2 amps for the single 35 watt lamp. |
 This
was than H4 bulb, but I have removed the lamp section of it to create this
adapter for the H4 headlamps. |
 Here
I took a small piece of tin and soldered it into place so that the lower
part of the lamp would not get any light and shin in to the on coming traffic. |
 Here
we have the HID lamp in place with the retaining clips holding it will
in place. |
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|
 You
will need to cut out the slot for the plug to go through since it cannot
be disconnected. |
 I
mounted my control right to the rear of the headlight housing. |
 Results?
They are great! The amount of light from the 35 watt bulbs is un-real.
once you have driven with HID's, you are not going to like any thing else. |
 This
picture really does not do justice for the lights. And when you see other
cars going down the street and you come up next to them, they will think
that there lights must be dirty. |
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Something to note: The HID's take up to 15 amps to ignite and will last just a faction of a second, then the power drops down to 3.2 amps while the lights are on. If you use the headlight wiring that powers the headlights, you may notice that the right front light may have a harder time starting because it is not getting all the power needed to ignite the bulb. To cover for this added load, I re-wired the HIDs to a power relay close to the power terminals located on the left side of the engine compartment and used 10 ga wire for the ground and the power to the ballast. I ran a wire from the coil of the relay to the headlight switch so that the high/low beam switch would not have any effect to the HIDs.
Legal note: HID kits like the one I made and those that are not OEM at this time, are not DOT legal. In most cases, you will not have a problem with using them, but when it come to state inspection, you may have a problem passing the test. If you have a setup where you have both a lens for high beam and low beam, you may pass with less of a problem.
January 2002: The DOT approved HID systems are now on the market, but it will be some time before you see them an most stores due to the high cost. But like anything new, at first it will cost you to have the latest in technology just like having a PC computer or a digital watch back many years ago, now they are a cheap every day item. The DOT approved setups require a new lens as well as the HID bulb itself due to the nature of the HID bulb's hot spot being larger then halogen bulbs and so the focal area is different.
As much as I loved the HID lights, I have been forced to remove them for state inspection, since they do not Texas State Inspection test. I knew it was coming.
HID vendors
SUVLights.com Great for prices and latest information on HID lights on the market.
Mac Motor Sports - Wiring Kit ready for Hummers
Predator Motorsports - Wiring Kit ready for Hummers
Philips MFG - CLICK HERE to find out more about H.I.D. Xenon lighting.
